DIY Flynn Multi Frame

Note to Pinners: THIS FRAME DOES NOT WORK!!!! Please read my comments at the bottom of this article.

If you've seen or heard of the Flynn Multi Quilting Frame, you'll know that it costs about $180.00. After careful study, I came up with my own version that is much cheaper. Ask your local lumber yard or hardware store if they have any scraps close to the size you need and have them cut for you. You may want to start with 24" pipes instead of 48" for small projects until you get the hang of using this frame. The longer the rods are, the more flexible they become. For anything longer than 48", you will want furniture grade PVC or wooden dowels which are more rigid. PVC clamps are available from flexpvc.com.

(1) 3/4x4x24" Solid pine shelving

(3) 48" lengths 1" I.D. Charlotte pipe

(2) 18" lengths 3" I.D. Sewer PVC

(6) 1" PVC End caps

(6) 1" PVC Clamps

(4) 24" strips of 1/2" ribbon

(8) Small safety pins

(6) 1/4 x 2" Carriage bolts

(6) 1/4" Wing nuts

(6) 1/4" Machine nuts

(12) 5/8" washers

1/4" Open end wrench

PVC glue

Vise clamps, large and small

Shop vise (optional)

Skill saw

Jig saw

Drill

1/4" drill bit

1/4" cutting bit

Sheet of poster board

Pencil

Ruler

Soda can

Scissors

Craft Bond spray adhesive

Use the poster board to make two templates. Measure and mark two rectangles 18" long x 2-1/2" wide. Use the top of a soda can to round off the ends inside the marks. Erase the pencil marks outside the round ends.

From one end, measure 1-1/2" and mark with an X. Measure 2-1/2" from that mark and make another X. Measure 1-1/2" from that mark and draw a 1-1/2" line. From the opposite end, measure 2" and mark with an X. Measure 1-3/4" from that mark and draw a 1-1/2" line 3/8" from the edge. Do the same on the other template. 

Cut out the templates and glue them beside each other on the wood board. Position them so each edge is flush with the edge of the board on either side leaving space between them for cutting. Use a jig saw to cut the rounded ends first. Then, cut the straight lines with the skill saw. You'll never make a cutting mistake using paper templates.

Use a small vise clamp to secure the end caps. Make sure the clamp is holding the bottom of the cap, not the top so you don't crush it. Sit in a solid chair with the clamp between your legs. Hold the clamp steady and drill a 1/4" hole in the center of the cap. Repeat for all the others. It's best to use a drill press for this, if you have one.

Lay the boards on top of one another, making sure the hole marks are lined up. Clamp them to a bench and drill the holes. 

Drill holes just inside the marks at each end of the straight lines. Change to the cutting bit and bore out from hole to hole.

Assembly

Place a washer and bolt in each end cap hole. 

Place a washer and nut onto the bolt and tighten with a wrench. Get it as tight as you can. Swirl a bit of pvc glue around the inside of the pipe. Insert the end cap. Let the glue cure. Place a washer on the bolt. 

Slide the bolt through a hole in the board. Place another washer on the bolt. Place a wing nut on the bolt and tighten. Repeat for the other two pipes.

Tension Bands

Cut a slit through one end of the ribbon. Slip the cut end through the slit in the wood. Slide the other end through the cut and pull it tight. Make sure the ribbon is under the board edge and not over it. Repeat with the other three ribbons. Different projects may require different lengths of ribbon. It's better to have them too long than too short.

Mounting

Center the backing fabric on the rod. Secure the fabric to the rods with the PVC clamps. The backing is wound around the first of the two rods on the end. Notice how the fabric is oriented. The wrong side faces up and wraps around the rod from the bottom.

Loosen the wing nuts. Roll the backing fabric onto the rod, keeping it straight and tight. Make sure there is enough fabric on the end to wrap around the top rod. Tighten the wing nuts and move this fabric out of the way.

Roll up the batting making sure there is enough on the end to wrap around the top rod. Move the batting back out of the way.

Secure the fabric to the rods with the PVC clamps. The top is wound around the second of the two rods on the end. Notice how the fabric is oriented. The right side faces up and wraps around the rod from the bottom.

Loosen the wing nuts. Roll the top fabric onto the rod, keeping it straight and tight. Make sure there is enough fabric on the end to wrap around the top rod. Tighten the wing nuts and move this fabric out of the way.

Replace the backing fabric. Attach a safety pin close to the edge of the fabric. Slide the ribbon through the closed pin and tighten. The pin will pop open if you pull too much. Secure the ribbon with another pin. 

Repeat for the other three ribbons.

The backing fabric and batting are wound around from the bottom. The top is placed over the ends of the batting and backing. Clamp the ends to the rod. Loosen the wing nuts on the top rod and roll the quilt to create tension. Tighten the wing nuts.

The rolled batting rests between the first and second rods. The finished quilting is wound around the top rod that goes under the machine throat.

Using the Frame

Leave the extension table on your sewing machine if it has one. Turn your sewing machine so the throat is behind you rather than to the right. This orientation will take some getting used to. 

Place the 3" PVC pipes on either side of the machine. They balance the frame and allow freedom of movement in all directions. 

Remove the foot attachment from the machine. Remove the board and tension bands from one side. Slide the quilt under the foot arm. Don't try to slide the rod under the foot arm; it won't fit.

Replace the board and tension bands. Replace the foot attachment and you're ready to stitch your quilt. Roll up the quilt on the top rod as you finish each area.

This frame can also be used as a stretching frame and for hand quilting. It may be expanded and used for long arm quilting with your home machine as well.

Assessment

I tried it out and the only thing I like about it is being able to roll my quilt and not have any wrinkles on the back. The tension bands weren't necessary. The rods provide enough tension to keep the backing tight. 

It's heavy. There is so much weight on the 3" pipes that it renders them useless, even though they are required for supporting the frame. 

The frame has to be lifted while stitching to prevent drag. That leads to the other problem of the frame not having enough support. 

It lacks balance. When the needle is on one end or the other of the quilt, the frame tilts in the opposite direction. The machine and frame has to rest on a long table for adequate support.

The 3" pipes do not roll smoothly which causes skips and uneven stitches that lack uniformity. It needs stability. 

Lastly, it isn't fair to call this a free motion frame because the movement is so limited. There is only 3-1/4" of space between the pipe and the needle on my machine.

It is best used for narrow continuous line stitching. I recommend that you skip this one and move on to my Rolling Quilt Frame.