Sunday, March 31, 2019

Natural Makeup Ingredients

I'm just throwing this out there for anyone who wants to jump on the natural makeup bandwagon. Food powders can be substituted for mineral pigments. Do not use them for paint because they are perishable once they become wet. They can, however be used for dye and food coloring. Keep formulas in powder form in a cool, dry place until ready to use so they don't turn rancid. Most of these ingredients can be found at Walmart, but I've provided links to all of them anyway. You may be tempted to use dehydrated powder, but the color is dull. It isn't vibrant like freeze dried and your formula will be flat. If you want a muted tone for eye shadow or lipstick, that's okay. Conventional makeup is popular because it tends to be hypoallergenic with a few exceptions being fragrance or FD&C Red #7 used in red lipstick and food coloring which some people are allergic to. Be weary of food allergies. Many people are allergic to strawberries, tomatoes, citrus, peanuts and almonds. These are just the most common allergens. You can't predict what a person may be allergic to, so there could always be others.

Just because you can eat a spice, don't expect it to not irritate your skin. This holds especially true for capsaicin found in paprika and all other peppers that gives them their heat. It may plump your lips, but using too much can cause a chemical burn and skin damage. Just because it's food doesn't make it safe or harmless. 

Lastly, food isn't opaque like mineral or oxide pigments, so the formulas will be sheer. Zinc oxide is a whitening natural sunscreen, but it can be ashy on dark skin tones. Clay is also a natural sunscreen that is non whitening. I definitely recommend wearing sunscreen under natural makeup. All of the products except for the clay and zinc oxide are food based and vegan.

Fractionated Coconut Oil -- used as a pressing medium and lip gloss.

Refined Coconut Oil -- used for making lipstick or solid formulas. 
Coconut oil comes in two different melt temperatures: 76 and 92. The 76 melt point will create a potted lip product, while the 92 will provide a lipstick consistency that will melt at a higher temperature.

Saline Solition for liquid eyeliner and mascara. It's much safer for use around the eyes than coconut oil. Bio True is pH neutral and kills 99% of germs.

Base Powders
 
 
 
 

UV Filters

UVB rays touch the skin and cause sun burn. Most sunscreens are UVB filters, but only one is botanical. The others are lightening zinc oxide or whitening titanium dioxide. UVA penetrates the skin and causes wrinkles. The only UVA filters are synthetic and some people like myself are allergic to them. These chemicals have also been proven to destroy coral reefs and damage aquatic life. The state of Hawaii has banned them.

High Micron Zinc Oxide is a whitening powder with a large particle size (passing through 325 mesh) that is a good option for cosmetics which require more coverage and density for fair and light skin tones. Using too much may cause ashiness.

Z-Cote Zinc Oxide is a non-whitening form of zinc that provides sun protection for darker skin tones. Water formulations only.

HP1 Z-Cote Zinc Oxide is a non-whitening form of zinc that provides sun protection for darker skin tones. Powder and oil formulations only.

Zinc Oxide Dispersion is zinc oxide predisposed in mineral oil and capric triglyceride.

Cinnamate is a liquid, oil soluble sunscreen derived from cinnamon leaf that will not effect color.

Reds
 
 
 
HibiscusButterfly Pea Flower + hibiscus, it will turn bright red.

Pinks
 

Red Oranges

Paprika can be irritating to skin. Do a small patch test on your neck or under your chin. Do not use around the eyes!

Oranges
 

Cinnamon can be irritating to skin and some people are allergic to it. Do a small patch test on your neck or under your chin. Do not use Clove or Cinnamon around the eyes!

Yellow Oranges

Yellows
 

Greens
 


Blues
Red Cabbage powder + 1/2 tsp baking soda. Use wet for the effect.

Purples
 
   
Butterfly Pea Flower + lemon juice. Can only be used on lips because of the acid. 
Red Cabbage powder, neutral wet

Burgundys
Browns

Do not use spices around the eyes! Only cocoa, cacao, coffee and tea are eye safe. Instant Coffee is great for making liquid or cream foundation, eyeshadow and contour formulas. It also makes delicious lip products. Instant tea can be used as well.
 
Golden Browns: NutmegCoffee, Gold
 
   
 
Reddish Browns: Cocoa Double DutchCocoa DutchTea powder, wet
 
 
 
Brown Blacks: Cocoa NoirTea powder, dry

Black Walnut Hull Use it dry for eyeshadow and deep neutral brown skin tones. Use it wet for brows, eyeliner, or mascara. It will stain skin! The green hull is used raw or powdered as a dye. The hard shell is powdered and used as an exfoliant.
 
Caramel food coloring/flavoring is literally caramelized sugar mixed with grain alcohol (vodka or everclear). It is often used in conventional lip products. Coffee flavoring contains caramel and is very dark. They are the only conventional food colorings or flavorings that do not contain artificial coloring. They can easily be made at home.

Blacks
 
Black Mallow petals -- sheer black used for darkening a color. More forgiving than charcoal. You'll have to seperate the petals from the buds and grind them.

Activated Charcoal -- opaque black and imparts an olive tone to yellow. This particular variety is made from coconut hulls and is pH neutral. It is not the same charcoal used for absorbing toxins. Be careful with this stuff; it turns everything black!

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