Fusible Appliqué

Traditional appliqué was always boring to me. The only fabric options were solids or calico prints and the shapes were so basic, they could have only appealed to a child. I couldn't wrap my mature, artistic head around it. Contemporary appliqué is different. Blender fabric and batiks have opened up a whole new world of possibilities. These vibrant, colorful fabrics make appliqué look realistic. Micro tip scissors make cutting sharp points and tiny curves easy. I no longer have to look at the basic shape of a Rose of Sharon with its perfectly round petals and flat red fabric. 

I can now see a tea rose in full bloom with its natural curvy petals and graduated color. Appliqué has come to life!

Quilt Fusion is a free open source program for designing appliqué quilts. There is also a version for iPad.

  

Fabric Stabilizer (Perfect Sew): Add 1/2 teaspoon of clear Dawn dishwashing soap and 2 ounces of Elmer's clear washable glue to 16 ounces of cold water. Stir to combine. Spray on or soak fabric until wet. Allow to dry until damp and iron stiff. Stabilizes foundation fabric and appliqués. 

Freezer paper is popular for making appliqué templates because it's reuasable at least three times.

Spray starch is brushed onto the edge that is folded over the freezer paper template and ironed into place.

Glue is generally used in machine appliqué and that glue can take many forms. Purple glue stick, Elmer's washable glue, fusible web and Fabri-Tac can all be used for tacking appliqués to foundation fabric. Appliqués can be straight stitched, blanket stitched, satin stitched or not stitched at all.

The glue stick is applied to appliqué edges for tacking to the foundation fabric. Both methods are commonly used for turned edge appliqué.

Washable glue is used with freezer paper templates. Brush a thick layer of washable glue onto the plastic side and iron it onto the wrong side of fabric. Cut the fabric to shape. Peel the paper off and the glue sticks to the fabric. Dampen the glue and iron the piece to another piece or to the foundation fabric. Fusible web is completely unnecessary and a waste of money if you intend to satin stitch the pieces.

 

Fusible web is ironed onto fabric and the shape is cut out. The paper is removed and the appliqué is ironed onto the foundation fabric. These pieces are usually not stitched.

Fabri-Tac is an alternative for adhering raw edge appliqués and tiny pieces that can't be sewn. It can be thinned with acetone and brushed on. It's permanent but flexible and can be washed. However, it is hard and scratchy once dry. It is best used for wall hangings.

Anything you can draw or copy can be used for fusible appliqué. Intricate designs are cut with a machine like the Brother Design N Cut or the Brother Scan N Cut SDX225 that reads PES embroidery files. Either machine can be connected to a computer. Fusible web is ironed into the wrong side of the fabric before it is cut.

A popular technique is to use an embroidery machine to make embroidered and reverse appliqué. This technique uses an embroidery design that is sent to the Brother Scan N Cut SDX225 or similar machine that cuts the fabric according to the PES file. That same file is used in the embroidery machine to robotically stitch the embroidery precisely around the appliqué. 

  

Bias tubes are used for flower stems and Celtic Knotwork.

    

Coats & Clark Trilobal Polyester or Dual Duty XP Fine are the best to use for satin stitch appliqué. Dual Duty XP can be used for blanket stitch or turned edge appliqué.

E 80/12: Embroidery w/Trilobal Polyester.

H-M 70/10: Microtex Sharp w/60 wt. Fine thread.

U 80/12 or 90/14: Universal w/35 wt. thread.

 
 

The Open Toe foot was originally designed with red markings for blanket stitching around raw edge wool felt appliqués. Brother later removed the markings from the metal foot, but retained the center mark on the clear foot.

A Curved Appliqué foot holds down turned edge appliqués and guides the needle for stitching around them.

 

An Open Toe foot (7 or 9mm) is used for satin stitch embroidery and attaching bias tubes. The 7mm is 1/4" wide and the 9mm is 3/8" wide.

A Welting foot is used with cording cotton under the top for creating raised effects. It is available with a single or double groove. Single groove welting feet come in five different sizes: 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2". Double groove feet come in three different sizes: 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4".

 

Cording cotton is used for creating 3D Celtic Knotwork or raised effects with a welting foot.

 

A Piping foot is also used with cording to make piping that can be sewn between quilt borders or used to make pillows.