Sunday, May 28, 2017

Makeup Base Recipes

These bases can be used for either mineral or natural makeup.

Equipment

Glass Eye dropper
Glass weighing funnels for weighing liquids
Muffin tin liners (standard and mini) for weighing powders
Aluminum mini pie pans for weighing wax beads
Wax paper cut to 3.5x3.5" square for weighing butters
#61 Palette knife
Candle warmer 
Glass Condiment bowl
Mini Herb grinder or coffee grinder for large batches
Press pans and tiles
Various makeup containers

These formulas are written to fill single containers or pans on the left and bulk bases in parentheses. For instance: if you want to make a single pressed eyeshadow, use the amount on the left. If you want to make enough base to press several eyeshadows, use the amount in parentheses. I did this intentionally to reduce waste. You can mix up a formula based on the small amounts to test it and see if you like it. If you tweak a formula, measure exact amounts and take notes. I recommend mixing bases in bulk, and then, portion out enough for a single container before adding pigment. This is especially useful for melt & pour applications.

Xanthan Gum Gel

2g Xanthan Gum
5g Glycerin
100ml Distilled Water
5 Drops Cap 5 Preservative
Quart size container with lid

In a quart size container, mix the xanthan gum with the glycerin to form a thick paste. Let the paste sit for 15 minutes. 

Add 10ml of water and whisk until smooth. 

Add 30ml of water and whisk until smooth again. 

Add the remaining 60ml and whisk until smooth. 

Add preservative. Store until needed.

Waterproof Sealant

Phase A

3.1g (31g) Isosodocane
1g (10g) Flake Resin

Phase B

1.1g (11g) Dimethicone
1g (10g) Silicone Gel
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Phase C

0.23g (2.3g) Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Mix Phase A ingredients together and heat on a candle warmer while stirring until completely dissolved. Remove from heat.

Mix Phase B. Add Phase B to Phase A. 

Add Phase C to Phase A-B. Stir vigorously until clear.

*The clear gel can be added to other finished formulas as a cold phase for transfer resistance and staying power. 

Use alone as an eyeliner, mascara or lipstick sealer. Using it to moisten powder formulas will cause a waterproof film to form over the powder, so it isn't suitable for use with cake eyeliner/mascara or foiling eyeshadow.

Double the amount of silica silylate for a priming or finishing gel. 

Phase A+B alone may be used as a finishing spray.

Moisturizing Stick

Phase A

1.5g (15g) Cocoa Butter
1.5g (15g) Shea Butter
1g (10g) Castor Wax
0.8g (8g) Jojoba Wax
0.7g (7g) Grape Seed Oil
0.5g (5g) Silicone Gel

Phase B

2g (20g) Water
0.7g (7g) Stearic Acid
0.4g (4g) Glycerin
0.3g (3g) Purslane Extract
0.3g (3g) Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
0.2g (2g) Propylene Glycol
0.1g (1g) Citric Acid
1 Drop (10 Drops) Sulfosuccinate
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Blend Phase B together and set aside. 

Heat Phase A, stirring continually, not above 168F. 

Add Phase B to Phase A. Beat with stick blender. 

Pour into a stick. 

May be used for other hard stick formulas such as deodorant.

Clear Gel Stick

Phase A

2g (20g) Cetyl Alcohol
0.5g (5g) Flake Resin

Phase B

3.4g (34g) Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
2.6g (26g) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
0.5g (5g) Sulfosuccinate 

Phase C

1g (10g) Colored Glycerin for blush, Witch Hazel for toner, Face oil, Aloe/Cucumber blend for cooling, diluted perfume blend, etc.

Heat Phase A to 275F, stirring until dissolved. 

Heat Phase B to 185F. 

Add Phase A to Phase B. 

Mix thoroughly, maintaining 185F. 

Slowly add Phase C while stirring. 

Pour into stick and cool to 77F. 

Stable for over 3 months at 104F.

May be used for primer, foundation, blush, bronzer, sunscreen, eye liner, brows, lip liner, toner, makeup remover, moisturizer, deodorant or perfume. This is the best multi use gel formula for all stick applications.

Translucent Face Primer

8g (80g) Rice Powder
2g (20g) Wrinkle Blur
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Gently heat wrinkle blur just until it is liquid. 

Remove from heat. 

Add rice powder and stir vigorously. 

Transfer to a squeeze tube or airless pump.

Tinted Face Primer

6g (60g) Rice Powder
2g (20g) Wrinkle Blur
3g (30g) Foundation or Corrector Blend
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Grind powders together. 

Gently heat wrinkle blur just until it is liquid. 

Remove from heat. 

Add powder and stir vigorously. 

Transfer to a squeeze tube or airless pump.

Mattifying Creme Primer

7g (70g) Rice Powder
2g (20g) Wrinkle Blur
0.6g (6g) Ceresin Wax
0.2g (2g) Cornstarch
0.2g (2g) Kaolin
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Grind powders together. 

Melt wax. Remove from heat. 

Let cool to below 168 degrees F. 

Stir in wrinkle blur. 

Add powder and stir vigorously. 

Pour into a pan or stick.

Serum Foundation

5.15g (51.5) Foundation Blend
3.95g (39.5g) Coconut Oil
3.95g (39.5g) Almond Oil
0.9g (9g) Dimethicone 
1 Drop (5 Drops) Carrot Seed Oil
1 Drop (5 Drops) Frankincense Oil
1 Drop (5 Drops) Myrrh Oil
1 Drop (5 Drops) Rosehip Oil
1 Drop (5 Drops) Lavender Oil
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Grind powder blend. 

Blend silicone gel, isododocane and tocopherol with oils. 

Add powder to oil mixture and stir vigorously. 

Transfer to a dropper bottle.

Pigment Drops

5.15g (51.5g) Foundation Blend
6.43g (64.3g) Dry silicone gel (see recipe above)

Grind foundation blend. 

Mix with silicone gel. 

Pour into a dropper bottle. 

May be used alone or mixed with moisturizer.

Light Liquid Foundation

4g (40g) Water
1.5g (15g) Shea Butter
0.7g (7g) Stearic Acid
0.7g (7g) Coconut Oil
0.5g (5g) Silicone Gel
0.5g (5g) Emulsifying wax
0.3g (3g) Xanthan Gel
4.15g (41.5) Foundation Blend
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Grind foundation blend. 

Melt wax together with oil and butter. 

Add stearic acid, water and xanthan gel, and stir vigorously. Let cool to below 168 degrees F. 

Add silicone gel and stir. Add powder and stir. 

Allow to cool to room temperature and stir in preservative. 

Transfer to a squeeze tube or airless pump.

Heavy Liquid Foundation

2g (20g) Water
1.5g (5g) Shea butter
0.7g (7g) Almond Oil
0.7g (7g) Stearic Acid
0.5g (5g) Silicone Gel
0.5g (5g) Emulsifying wax
0.3g (3g) Xanthan Gel
5.15g (51.5g) Foundation or Concealer Blend
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Grind foundation blend. 

Melt wax together with oil and butter. 

Add water and xanthan gel, and stir vigorously. 

Let cool to below 168 degrees F. 

Add silicone gel and stir. Add powder and stir. 

Allow to cool to room temperature and stir in preservative.

Transfer to a squeeze tube or airless pump.

Light Creme Foundation

3g (3g) Almond Oil
1g (10g) Dimethicone
1g (10g) Shea Butter
1.4g (14g) Cocoa Butter
2.1g (21g) Beeswax
3.68g (36.8g) Talc
2.74g (27.4g) Foundation Blend or Color Corrector
0.04g (0.4g) Zinc Stearate
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Grind foundation blend. 

Melt wax together with oil. Remove from heat. 

Add powder, and stir. 

Allow to cool to room temperature and stir in preservative. 

Pour into a pan or stick. 

For a creamy squeeze tube formula, reduce the beeswax to 1 or 10 grams.

Heavy Creme Foundation

3g (30g) Almond Oil
1.6g (16g) Dimethicone
0.8g (8g) Cocoa Butter
2.1g (21g) Beeswax
3.68g (36.8g) Talc
2.74g (27.4g) Foundation Blend
0.04g (0.4g) Zinc Stearate
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Grind foundation blend. 

Melt waxes together with oils. Do not heat over 176F. 

Add powder and stir. 

Pour into a pan or stick. 

For a creamy squeeze tube formula, reduce the beeswax to 1 or 10 grams.

Grease Paint or Stage Makeup

2 Tbsp. (2.4g or 24g) Veg shortening or 92 deg coconut oil
5 tsp. (2g or 20g) Cornstarch or talc
1 tsp. (0.4g or 4g) Flour or kaolin
1/2 tsp. (0.2g or 2g) Petroleum jelly or Shea butter
1/2 tsp. (0.2g or 2g) Clear Gel Antiperspirant* (optional)
3g (30g) Pigment or blend

*Antiperspirant contains alumina oxide that some people are allergic to. Stage actors will sometimes prep their skin with antiperspirant to prevent their makeup from sweating off. This is still an option. The alternative is adding the antiperspirant to the makeup. This can make a stick more solid without adding beeswax. 

Melt shortening or coconut oil. Mix in cornstarch or talc to thicken. Mix in flour or kaolin to opacify. Stir in petroleum jelly or Shea butter to make it creamy. Stir in antiperspirant, if using. Add pigment and stir to blend thoroughly. Pour into a stick, pan or pot. Must be set with a translucent powder. Any color powder will darken because this is an oily formula.

Maximum Coverage Concealer

3g (30g) Almond Oil
1g (10g) Dimethicone
0.8g (8g) Cocoa Butter
2.1g (21g) Beeswax
4g (40g) Talc
2.74g (27.4g) Concealer Blend
0.04g (0.4g) Zinc Stearate
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Grind foundation blend. 

Melt waxes together with oils. Do not heat over 176F. 

Add powder and stir. 

Pour into a pan or stick. 

For a creamy squeeze tube formula, reduce the beeswax to 1 or 10 grams.

Classic Pressed Powder

3g (30g) Powder Foundation, Tinted Finishing Powder, etc
2g (20g) Matte Texture Base
Press medium

Grind eyeshadow blend. 

Add just enough press medium to make a crumbly powder. 

Transfer to a pan and press.

Classic Pressed Blush, Bronzer or Highlighter

2g (20g) Blush Blend, Bronzer or Highlighter
1g (10g) Matte Texture Base
Pressing medium

Grind eyeshadow blend. 

Add just enough press medium to make a crumbly powder. 

Transfer to a pan and press.

Moisturizing Pressed Blush, Bronzer or Highlighter

2g (20g) Blush Blend, Bronzer or Highlighter
1g (10g) Zinc Stearate
Fractionated Coconut Oil
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Grind eyeshadow blend. 

Add just enough coconut oil to make a crumbly powder. 

Transfer to a pan and press.

Baked Blush, Bronzer or Highlighter

3g (30g) Blush Blend, Bronzer or Highlighter
10-15ml Mineral Water
1 Drop Cap 5 Preservative
Rubbing Alcohol 

Grind blush blend. 

Add just enough alcohol to wet the powder. 

Add water to make a thin paste. 

Pour into a pan. Tap on surface to level. 

Bake at 176 F for 10 minutes. Don't let it completely dry in the oven or it will crack. 

Press with a tile. 

Ombré: Pour dark color on top, light color on bottom, midtone in the center. Blend with a toothpick. Tap on surface to even. Bake as above.

Marbled: Mix 1 teaspoon white or colored mica with 3-5ml of water. Pour primary color in pan. Add dots of second color with a toothpick. Blend slightly. Tap on surface to even. Bake as above.

Multi Color: Spoon each color into different sections. Blend with a toothpick or leave separate. Tap on surface to even. Bake as above.

Creme Blush, Bronzer, or Highlighter

3.25g (32.5g) Almond Oil
1g (10g) Dimethicone
1g (10g) Shea Butter
1.4g (14g) Cocoa Butter
2.1g (21g) Beeswax
2g (20g) Talc
2.69g (26.9g) Blush Blend
0.04g (0.4g) Zinc Stearate
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Grind foundation blend. 

Melt wax together with oil. Remove from heat. 

Add powder, and stir. Allow to cool to room temperature and stir in preservative. 

Pour into a pan or stick. 

For a creamy squeeze tube formula, reduce the beeswax to 1 or 10 grams.

Creme Contour

3.25g (32.5g) Almond Oil
1g (10g) Dimethicone
1g (10g) Shea Butter
1.4g (14g) Cocoa Butter
2.1g (21g) Beeswax
4.6g (46g) Talc
1.5g (15g) Contour Blend
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Grind foundation blend. 

Melt wax together with oil. Remove from heat. 

Add powder, and stir. 

Allow to cool to room temperature and stir in preservative. 

Pour into a pan or stick. 

For a creamy squeeze tube formula, reduce the beeswax to 1 or 10 grams.

Highlighter or Bronzer Drops

Phase A

8g (80g) Grape seed oil
5g (50g) Thickening clay

Phase B

3 Drops (25g) Cap 5 preservative

Phase C

14g (140g) Cyclopentasiloxane

Phase D

10g (100g) Mica or bismuth oxychloride

Combine Phase A using a mini blender with the whisk attachment. Add Phase B and blend well. Add Phase C and mix with the whisk blender until thoroughly combined. Add Phase D and thoroughly combine.

Pour into a dropper bottle. 

May be used alone or mixed with moisturizer.

Creme Eyelid Primer

0.9g (9g) Candelila Wax
0.9g (9g) Beeswax
0.9g (9g) Shea Butter
0.9g (9g) Castor Oil
0.55g (5.5g) Talc
0.5g (5g) Silicone Gel
0.1g (1g) Color Corrector or Concealer Blend (optional)
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Grind powder blend. Melt waxes with oils and butter. 

Add powder and stir vigorously. 

Let cool to room temperature and stir in silicone gel and preservative. 

Transfer 4-5 ml to a 4-6 mm pencil or pour into a pan.

"V" Stamp

1.5g (15g) Jojoba Oil
1.5g (15g) Stearic Acid
1.5g (15g) Lauryl Laurate Wax
0.05g (0.1g) Black Oxide
0.5g (5g) Lanolin
0.1g (1g) Talc
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Grind pigment with talc. 

Melt wax with jojoba oil, lanolin and stearic acid. 

Add pigment mixture and stir. 

Pour into pan or pot.

Smudging Gel

3.5g (35g) Xanthan Gel
0.7g (7g) Coconut Oil
0.5g (5g) Candelila Wax
0.2g (2g) Lauryl Laurate Wax
0.2g (2g) Propylene Glycol 
0.1g (1g) Magnesium Myristrate 
1 Drop (10 Drops) Sulfosuccinate
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Add sulfosuccinate and propylene glycol to xanthan gel and stir. 

Add magnesium myristrate to the gel and stir. 

Melt waxes and oil together. Remove from heat. 

Add gel mixture and stir vigorously. Let cool to room temperature and stir in preservative. 

Gently reheat just until liquid and transfer 2.5 or 4 ml to a 1.5 mm pencil mold, 4 mm pencil, pan, or pot.

Pure Pigment Eyeshadow

6g (60g) Distilled Water
1g (10g) Tragacanth
1.5g (15g) Pigment or mica
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 5 Preservative

Mix tragacanth with water and allow to sit for 15 minutes. It may gel. Add more water to make it a fluid consistency. 

Wet pigment with alcohol. Add tragacanth water and stir. 

Pour into a pan. 

Wait until almost dry before pressing. It may need to be topped off to fill the pan.

Classic Pressed Eyeshadow

2g (20g) Eyeshadow Blend
1g (10g) Matte Texture Press Base
Pressing medium

Grind eyeshadow blend. 

Add just enough silicone oil to make a crumbly powder. 

Transfer to a pan and press.

Moisturizing Pressed Eyeshadow

2g (20g) Eyeshadow Blend
1g (10g) Zinc Stearate
Fractionated Coconut Oil
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Grind eyeshadow blend. 

Add just enough coconut oil to make a crumbly powder. 

Transfer to a pan and press.

Baked or Multi Eyeshadow

3g (30g) Eyeshadow Blend
0.04g (0.4g) Zinc Stearate
10-15ml Mineral Water
1 Drop (10 Drops) Cap 5 Preservative
Rubbing Alcohol 

Grind eyeshadow blend. 

Add just enough alcohol to wet the powder. 

Add water to make a thin paste. 

Transfer to a pan. 

Tap on surface to level. 

Bake at 176 F for 10 minutes. Don't let it completely dry in the oven or it will crack. 

Press with a tile. 

Use a piece of card stock to separate colors. 

Also works for other powder formulas.

Creme Pot Eyeshadow

3.25g (32.5g) Almond Oil
1g (10g) Dimethicone
1g (10g) Shea Butter
1.4g (14g) Cocoa Butter
1g (10g) Beeswax
0.5g (5g) Talc
2.69g (26.9g) Pigment
0.04g (0.4g) Zinc Stearate
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Grind eyeshadow blend with talc and zinc stearate. 

Melt wax together with oil. 

Add powder and stir until thoroughly combined. 

Pour into a pot.

Powder Eyeshadow Pencil

6g (60g) Distilled Water
1g (10g) Tragacanth
3g (30g) Eyeshadow Blend
0.04g (0.4g) Zinc Stearate
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 5 Preservative

Grind eyeshadow blend with tragacanth. 

Combine water and preservative with tragacanth, and stir. 

Add just enough tragacanth water to make a thick liquid. 

Transfer to a 6 mm pencil. The excess water will evaporate.

Creme Eyeshadow Stick

4g (40g) Almond Oil
1.5g (15g) Shea Butter
2g (20g) Ozokerite Wax
0.4g (4g) Candelila Wax
2g (20g) Pigment
0.04g (0.4g) Zinc Stearate
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Grind eyeshadow blend with zinc stearate. 

Melt wax together with oil. Remove from heat. 

Add powder and stir. 

Pour into a stick.

Liquid Eyeshadow

4g (40g) Water
1.5g (15g) Shea Butter
3g (30g) Eyeshadow Blend
0.7g (7g) Stearic Acid
0.7g (7g) Coconut Oil
0.5g (5g) Silicone Gel
0.5g (5g) Emulsifying wax
0.3g (3g) Xanthan Gel
0.1g (1g) Mica (optional)
0.04g (0.4g) Zinc Stearate
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Grind eyeshadow blend. 

Melt wax together with oil and butter. 

Add stearic acid, water and xanthan gel, and stir vigorously. Let cool to below 168 degrees F. 

Add silicone gel and stir. Add powder and stir. 

Allow to cool to room temperature and stir in preservative. 

Transfer the eye shadow to a zip lock bag. Snip off the corner and squeeze into lip gloss tubes.

Eyeliner Moistener

8.6g (86g) Xanthan Gel
1g (10g) Coconut Oil
0.2g (2g) Propylene Glycol 
0.1g (1g) Panthenol
1 Drop (10 Drops) Sulfosuccinate
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 5 Preservative

Add sulfosuccinate and propylene glycol to xanthan gel and stir. 

Add oil and stir. 

Stir in the panthenol and preservative. 

Transfer to an eyeliner tube or pen. 

Can be used to moisten cake eyeliner, cake mascara or foiling eyeshadow.

Powder Cake Eyeliner

2g (20g) Castor Oil
1.5g (15g) Jojoba Oil
1.5g (15g) Stearic Acid
1.5g (15g) Candelila Wax
3g (30g) Pigment
0.5g (5g) Lanolin
0.4g (4g) Talc
0.04g (0.4g) Zinc Stearate
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Combine pigment with talc. 

Melt wax with oils, lanolin and stearic acid. 

Add pigment mixture and stir. 

Pour into pan or pot.

Liquid Eyeliner

7g (70g) Xanthan Gel
3g (30g) Pigment
0.7g (7g) Coconut Oil
0.2g (2g) Propylene Glycol 
0.2g (2g) Mica (optional)
0.15g (1.5g) Stearic Acid
0.04g (0.4g) Zinc Stearate
1 Drop (10 Drops) Sulfosuccinate
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 5 Preservative
1 Drop (5 Drops) Iron Powder (optional)

Add sulfosuccinate and propylene glycol to xanthan gel and stir. 

Add powder to the gel and stir. 

Gently heat the oil and stearic acid. Remove from heat. 

Add gel mixture and stir vigorously. 

Let cool to room temperature and stir in preservative. 

Add iron powder and stir to make it magnetic. 

Transfer the eyeliner to a zip lock bag. Snip off the corner and squeeze into eyeliner tubes or a pen.

Pot Gel Eyeliner

Phase A

1g (10g) Pigment prewetted with Dimethicone
0.5g (5g) Talc
0.3g (3g) Beeswax
3 Drops Almond Oil

Phase B

1.5g (15g) Dry Silicone Gel

Phase C

1 Drop (5 Drops) Iron Powder (optional)

Phase A: Wet pigment with 10 drops of dimethicone. Add talc to make it easy to transfer. 

Melt beeswax separately and add Almond oil.  Add pigment/talc. Blend thoroughly.

Add Phase B to Phase A. Blend thoroughly. 

Add iron powder and stir to make it magnetic. 

Pour into a pot.

Gel Eyeliner Pencil

Phase A

2g (20g) Cetyl Alcohol
0.5g (5g) Flake Resin

Phase B

3.4g (34g) Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
2.6g (26g) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
0.5g (5g) Sulfosuccinate
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 5 Preservative

Phase C

2g (20g) Pigment

Heat Phase A to 275F, stirring until dissolved. 

Heat Phase B to 185F. 

Add Phase A to Phase B. Mix thoroughly, maintaining 185F. 

Slowly add Phase C while stirring. 

Transfer 2.5 or 4 ml to a 1.5 mm pencil, 4 mm pencil mold.

Wax Eyeliner Pencil

0.9g (9g) Candelila Wax
0.9g (9g) Beeswax
0.9g (9g) Cocoa Butter
0.9g (9g) Castor Oil
1.5g (15g) Pigment
0.5g (5g) Mica (optional)
0.04g (0.4g) Zinc Stearate
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Melt waxes with oils and butter. 

Add powder and stir vigorously. 

Let cool to room temperature and stir in preservative. 

Transfer 2.5 ml to a 1.5 mm slim pencil mold.

Volumizing and Lengthening MascaraSilk Fibers or your own hair clippings cut into tiny pieces may be added to any of the following tube mascaras or brow tint.

Stiff Drying Clear Mascara

Phase A

7.5g (75g) Distilled Water
0.2g (2g) Propylene Glycol
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 5 Preservative
0.02g (0.2g) Carbomer

Phase B

0.3g (3g) Ethanol
0.02g (0.2g) Polysorbate 80
0.910g (9.10g) Pigment (optional)
2-3 Drops Silk fibers or hair clippings (optional)

Phase C

1.84g (18.4g) Distilled Water
0.1g (1g) Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Mix Phase A and stir until clear. 

Mix Phase B. Pigment may be added to Phase B for a drying color mascara.

Add Phase B to Phase A. 

Mix Phase C. 

Add Phase C to Phase A-B and stir. 

Transfer the mascara to a zip lock bag. Snip off the corner and squeeze into mascara tubes. 

Creamy Mascara

Phase A

0.99g (9.9g) Stearic Acid
0.55g (5.5g) Vaseline
0.410g (4.10g) Mineral Oil 70
0.3g (3g) Cyclopentasiloxane
0.2g (2g) Dimethicone
0.2g (2g) Cetyl Alcohol

Phase B

6.13g (61.30g) Distilled Water
0.910g (9.10g) Pigment
0.310g (3.10g) Polysorbate 80
2-3 Drops Silk fibers or hair clippings (optional)
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 5 Preservative

Mix Phase B and set aside. 

Mix Phase A and heat to 140F. 

Stir in Phase B and mix well. 

Transfer the mascara to a zip lock bag. Snip off the corner and squeeze into mascara tubes. 

Firm Mascara

Phase A

1.98g (19.8g) Stearic Acid
0.55g (5.5g) Vaseline
0.5g (5g) Cetyl Alcohol
0.410g (4.10g) Mineral Oil 350
0.4g (4g) Isododecane
0.2g (2g) Dimethicone

Phase B

4.34g (43.4g) Distilled Water
0.62g (6.2g) Polysorbate 80
2-3 Drops Silk fibers or hair clippings (optional)

Phase C

2g (20g) Pigment
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 5 Preservative

Mix Phase B and set aside. 

Mix Phase A and heat to 140F. 

Stir in Phase B and mix well. 

Transfer the mascara to a zip lock bag. Snip off the corner and squeeze into mascara tubes. 

Waterproof Mascara

Phase A

0.5g (5g) Beeswax
0.5g (5g) Candelila Wax
0.5g (5g) Stearic Acid
0.3g (3g) Cetyl Alcohol
0.3g (3g) Lanolin
0.2g (2g) Ozokerite Wax
0.1g (1g) Carnauba Wax

Phase B

0.5g (5g) Flake Resin
0.275g (2.75g) Isododecane

Phase C

2ml + 3 Drops (4ml + 6 Drops) Ammonia
2.5ml + 5 Drops (5ml + 10 Drops) Distilled Water

Phase D

5.425g (54.25g) Dionized Water
2g (20g) Pigment
0.3g (3g) Propylene Glycol
0.275g (2.75g) Ammonia Water (Phase C)
2-3 Drops Silk fibers or hair clippings (optional)
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 5 Preservative

Mix Phase B and set aside. 

Mix Phase C and set aside. 

Mix Phase A and heat to 140F. 

Add Phase B to Phase A and stir. 

Mix Phase D and add to Phase A-B. 

Transfer the mascara to a zip lock bag. Snip off the corner and squeeze into mascara tubes. 

Creme Pot Mascara

Phase A

1g (10g) Beeswax
3g (30g) Castor Oil
2g (20g) Shea Butter
1g (10g) Vaseline
1g (10g) Dry Silicone Gel
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Phase B

4g (40g) Talc
3g (30g) Pigment
0.04g (0.4g) Zinc Stearate

Grind Phase B. 

Melt Phase A. 

Add Phase B to Phase A and stir until thoroughly combined. 

Pour into a pot.

Cake Mascara

Phase A

1.51g (15.1g) Cetyl Alcohol
1.5g (15g) Beeswax
1.5g (15g) Candelila Wax
0.91g (9.1g) Microcrystalline Wax
0.91g (9.1g) Stearic Acid

Phase B

2g (20g) Pigment
1.13g (11.3g) Polysorbate 80
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Mix Phase A and heat to 140F. 

Mix Phase B and add to Phase A. 

Pour into pan or pot.

Lash/Brow Conditioner

4.5g (45g) Lanolin
1.5g (15g) Almond Oil
1.5g (15g) Castor Oil
1.85g (18.5g) Rose Water
0.15g (1.5g) Hydrolyzed Silk Powder
0.5g (5g) Cocoa Butter
1 Drop (10 Drops) Rosemary Oil
1 Drop (10 Drops) Panthenol
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Melt lanolin, almond oil, castor oil and butter together. 

Add rose water, panthenol and tocopherol, and stir. 

Let cool to room temperature. 

Add rosemary oil, silk powder and preservative, and stir. 

Gently reheat just until liquid.

Transfer the mascara to a zip lock bag. Snip off the corner and squeeze into mascara tubes.

Liquid Brow Tint

6.5g (65g) Xanthan Gel
0.6g (6g) Coconut Oil
1.5g (15g) Pigment
0.2g (2g) Propylene Glycol 
2-3 Drops Silk fibers or hair clippings (optional)
1 Drop (10 Drops) Sulfosuccinate 
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 5 Preservative

Add sulfosuccinate and propylene glycol to xanthan gel and stir. 

Add oil and stir. 

Add pigment to the gel and stir. 

Stir in the preservative. 

Transfer the brow gel to a zip lock bag. Snip off the corner and squeeze into mascara tubes. 

Brow Pomade

Phase A

3g (30g) Beeswax
1g (10g) Castor Oil
2g (20g) Shea Butter
1g (10g) Vaseline
1g (10g) Dry Silicone Gel
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Phase B

4g (40g) Talc
3g (30g) Pigment
0.04g (0.4g) Zinc Stearate

Grind Phase B. 

Melt Phase A. 

Add Phase B to Phase A and stir until thoroughly combined. 

Pour into a pot.

Wax Brow Pencil

1g (10g) Ozokerite Wax
1g (10g) Beeswax
0.75g (7.5g) Castor Oil
0.75g (7.5g) Jojoba Oil
1.5g (15g) Pigment
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Melt waxes with oils. 

Add pigment and stir vigorously. 

Let cool to room temperature and stir in preservative. 

Gently reheat just until liquid and transfer 2.5 ml to a 1.5 mm slim pencil mold.

Powder Brow Pencil or Cake

6g (60g) Distilled Water
1g (10g) Tragacanth
1.5g (15g) Pigment
0.1g (1g) Talc
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 5 Preservative

Grind pigment with talc and tragacanth. 

Add water and stir. 

Transfer to a 1.5 mm slim pencil mold or pour into a pan.

Lip Primer

2.7g (27g) Silicone Gel
2g (20g) Talc
1.85g (18.5g) Ceresin Wax
1.85g (18.5g) Ozokerite Wax
1.3g (13g) Coconut Oil
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Grind powder. 

Melt waxes together with oil. Remove from heat. Let cool to below 168 degrees F. 

Add silicone gel and stir. 

Add powder and stir vigorously. 

Allow to cool to room temperature and stir in preservative. 

Pour into a pan or transfer 4 ml to a 4 mm pencil mold.

Lip Stain

4.5g (45g) Everclear
4.5g (45g) Glycerin
1g (10g) Pigment
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 5 Preservative

Combine glycerin with alcohol. 

Add powder to liquid and blend well. 

Transfer the lip stain to a zip lock bag. Snip off the corner and squeeze into lip gloss tubes or pour into a pen. 

Very drying. Use a lip balm over the stain.

Lip Liner Pencil

0.9g (9g) Candelila Wax
0.9g (9g) Beeswax
0.75g (7.5g) Cocoa Butter
0.75g (7.5g) Castor Oil
1.8g (18g) Pigment
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Melt waxes with oils and butter. 

Add pigment and stir vigorously. 

Let cool to room temperature and stir in preservative. 

Transfer 2.5 ml to a 1.5 mm slim pencil mold

Liquid Lip Gloss

8.4g (84g) Coconut Oil
0.5g (5g) Jojoba Oil
0.5g (5g) Beeswax
0.5g (5g) Silicone Gel
0.10g (2 small scoops) Pigment or dye predispersed
0.10g (2 sm. scoops) Mica (optional)
3 Drops (30 Drops) Flavoring (optional)
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Melt wax and oils together. Remove from heat. Let cool to below 168 degrees F. 

Add silicone gel and stir vigorously. 

Mix dye with castor oil. Add dye and mica to wax mixture and blend. 

Top with flavoring, if using, and blend again. 

Allow to cool to room temperature and stir in preservative. 

Transfer the lip gloss to a zip lock bag. Snip off the corner and squeeze into lip gloss tubes. 

Liquid Matte Lipstick

Phase A

3.1g (31g) Isosodocane
1g (10g) Flake Resin
1.1g (11g) Dimethicone

Phase B

0.3g (3g) Silica Dimethyl Silicate
0.1g (1g) Nylon 12
0.1g (1g) Silica

Phase C

0.3g (3g) Beeswax
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

The amount of base = 6g (60g)
The test batch will fill 2 travel size tubes or 6 tester size tubes. The bulk batch will fill 7 standard size tubes or 6 large size tubes.

To fill a single large size tube = 10 ml

1g Powdered pigment wetted with dimethicone 
9g Base

To fill a single standard size tube = 8 ml

1g Powdered pigment wetted with dimethicone 
7g Base

To fill a single travel size tube = 3 ml

0.1g Powdered pigment wetted with dimethicone 
2.9g Base

To fill a single tester size tube = 1 ml

0.01g Powdered pigment wetted with dimethicone 
0.99g Base

Mix Phase A ingredients together until completely dissolved. 

Add Phase B to Phase A. Use a spatula or Mini Mixer and mix until you see no more clumps. 

Heat Phase C to 176F over a double boiler. 

Heat Phase A+B to 158F. 

Take off heat. Add Phase A+B to Phase C while stirring.. 

Add Preservative Cap-2 and continue mixing until temperature reduces to 113F.

To color, pre-wet powdered dye or pigment with Dimethicone and add to uncolored base. Stir to combine.

Transfer the lipstick to a zip lock bag. Snip off the corner and squeeze into lip gloss tubes. 

Potted Lip Gloss

3.8g (38g) Castor Oil
2.4g (24g) Shea Butter
2g (20g) Beeswax
1.5g (15g) Cocoa Butter
1g (10g) Lake Dye or pigment dispersed in castor oil
0.2g (2g) Stearic Acid
0.1 (1g) Mica (optional)
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Melt everything together in a double boiler and pour into pans or pots.

Lip Balm

2.5g (25g) Coconut Oil
2g (20g) Jojoba Oil
2g (20g) Beeswax
1.9g (19g) Evening Primrose Oil
1g (10g) Pigment or dye dispersed in castor oil
0.1g (1g) Mica (optional)
3 Drops (30 Drops) Flavoring (optional)
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Melt wax and oils, except primrose together. Remove from heat. 

Add pigment and stir vigorously. 

Let cool to below 168 degrees F. 

Stir in preservative, primrose oil, and flavoring. 

Gently reheat just until liquid and pour into tubes.

Natural Moisturizing Lipstick

4.5g (45g) Castor Oil

2g (20g) Pigment or dye dispersed in castor oil

1g (10g) Carnauba Wax

1g (10g) Candelilla Wax

1g (10g) Shea Butter

1g (10g) Mica (optional)

0.5g (5g) Jojoba Oil

0.5g (5g) Grapeseed Oil

0.5g (5g) Avocado Oil

0.5g (5g) Wheat Germ Oil

0.5g (5g) Fractionated Coconut Oil

1 Drop (5 Drops) Tocopherol 

1 Drop (5 Drops) Honeysuckle Extract

1 Drop (5 Drops) Italian Honeysuckle Extract

1 Drop (5 Drops) Ascorbyl Palmitate


Melt wax and oils together. Remove from heat. 

Add pigment and stir vigorously. 

Let cool to below 168 degrees F. 

Stir in preservative and extracts. 

Gently reheat just until liquid and pour into tubes.

Sheer Satin Lipstick

4.3g (43g) Castor Oil
2g (20g) Beeswax
1g (10g) Ozokerite Wax
1g (10g) Pigment or dye dispersed in castor oil
0.5g (5g) Shea Butter
0.3g (3g) Silicone Gel
0.3g (3g) Translucent Powder Base
0.2g (2g) Stearic Acid
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Grind powders together. Disperse lake dye in castor oil. 

Melt the waxes and lanolin together with oil. 

Add pigment to wax and stir to blend. Remove from heat. 

Add powder and stir vigorously. Let cool to below 168 degrees F. 

Add the silicone gel and preservative, and stir. 

Gently reheat just until liquid and pour into a lip stick mold. Fill just below the top as it will expand slightly as it cools. 

Leave to cool for at least half an hour. Place in freezer until hard. Transfer cold stick to tube.

Shimmer Lipstick

2.3g (23g) Castor Oil
2g (20g) Carnauba
2g (20g) Pigment or dye dispersed in castor oil
1g (10g) Ozokerite Wax
1g (10g) Mica
0.5g (5g) Shea Butter
0.3g (3g) Silicone Gel
0.3g (3g) Translucent Powder Base
0.2g (2g) Stearic Acid
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative

Grind powders together. Disperse lake dye in castor oil. 

Melt the waxes and lanolin together with oil. 

Add pigment and mica to wax and stir to blend. 

Remove from heat. 

Add powder and stir vigorously. Let cool to below 168 degrees F. 

Add the silicone gel and stir. Let cool to room temperature. Add preservative and stir. 

Gently reheat just until liquid and pour into a lip stick mold. Fill just below the top as it will expand slightly as it cools. 

Leave to cool for at least half an hour. Place in freezer until hard. Transfer cold stick to tube.

Solid Matte Lipstick

2.2g (22g) Jojoba Oil
2g (20g) Pigment or dye dispersed in castor oil
1g (10g) Candelila Wax
1g (10g) Carnauba Wax
1g (10g) Ozokerite Wax
1g (10g) Kaolin Clay
0.5g (5g) Shea Butter
0.3g (3g) Silicone Gel
0.3g (3g) Translucent Powder Base
0.2g (2g) Stearic Acid
1 Drop (5 Drops) Cap 2 Preservative
1 Drop each (5 Drops each) peppermint & cinnamon oil (optional for plumping)

Grind powders together. Disperse lake dye in castor oil. 

Melt the waxes and lanolin with oil. 

Add pigment to wax and blend. Remove from heat. 

Add powder to wax and stir vigorously. Let cool to below 168 degrees F. 

Add the silicone gel and stir. Let cool to room temperature. 

Add preservative and essential oils and stir. 

Gently reheat just until liquid and pour into a lip stick mold. 

Fill just below the top as it will expand slightly as it cools. 

Leave to cool for at least half an hour. Place in freezer until hard. Transfer cold stick to tube.

9 comments:

  1. This is awesome! Thanks so much for sharing!!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You're very welcome. Thank you for commenting.

      Delete
  2. Hello,
    Regarding phase a of the matte lipstick recipe. That is used to make the liquid lipstick matte, correct? So that mixture can be used with other liquid lipstick bases? How many regular sized tubes does your recipe make? What is the difference in the recipe amounts, the first measurement and the second one in parentheses?
    Thank you for these recipes! They will be very helpful.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. There are two separate formulas: one for liquid matte and another for solid matte lipstick. I stated at the top of the post: “These formulas are written to fill single containers or pans on the left and bulk bases in parentheses.” Use the small amounts on the left to test a formula or to fill a single container of the appropriate size for personal use. The amounts in parentheses are for bulk formulas to fill several containers with a single color. I’ve updated the liquid matte lipstick recipe instructions so they will be more clear.

      Delete
  3. With the solid matte lipstick, what type of clay are you referring to?

    ReplyDelete
  4. Hi, thank you so much this list is amazing

    For the dry silicone gel, can that be used alone as a gel eyeliner or would it work better combined with the eyeliner formula?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It is intended as a waterproof sealer to be worn over eyeliner, mascara or lipstick. I've changed the name to reflect this purpose. It may be used as a waterproof additive in an eyeliner formula.

      Delete
  5. This helps a ton! Thank you so much for doing this 💕

    ReplyDelete