Batik is a method of resist dyeing that uses wax or glue to create a pattern on dyed or undyed cloth. Traditional batik wax is 50% paraffin and 50% microcrystalline wax that produces a crackle effect that Indonesian batik is known for. Beeswax does not crackle and is used for creating solid lines and patterns. Both can be used in a cold dye bath.
Tjantings or batik pens are used for drawing fine lines with hot wax. A dropper is used for making dots. Tjaps are stamps that are dipped into hot wax and applied to fabric to produce designs. They are traditionally made with copper, but can also be made of carved wood or clay. Find them on eBay or Etsy under batik stamps, wood fabric stamp, wood block stamp, textile printing blocks, or clay stamps. You can always carve your own with a dremel or make clay stamps with oven drying clay and molding mats or pottery tools. Layers of wax and dye are repeatedly applied to the fabric, yielding an overlapping color design that goes from light to dark.
Batik Wax is a 50/50 blend of paraffin and microcrystalline wax. In other words, buy a jar candle and a box of canning wax or get it for $10.95 at Dharma Trading.
Beeswax $15.56 per pound at Dharma Trading.
Wax Melter, 4" is $9.29; 7" is $31.82 at Dharma Trading. Florists use the 7" wax melters to make silk arrangements. Ask someone to order you one at wholesale.
Richeson Natural Bristle brush assortment for brushing on wax. $15.48 at Blick Art.
Natural Bristle Utility brushes from the house painting aisle for brushing wax across large areas.
Crayola White Taklon brushes for painting with dye available at Walmart for $4.20 per set.
Batik Dropper Pens $4.55 at Dharma Trading.
Textile Printing Blocks are all over ebay for various prices.
Superclear high viscosity thickener for painting with dye $6.95 at Dharma Trading. Sodium alginate can also be used. $5.95/4 oz. at Dharma Trading.
Materials
Melting skillet
Batik pen
Batik dropper
Batik stamps
Natural bristle brushes
Warm dye bath
Super Clear
White Taklon brushes
You may apply wax to white or dyed fabric. Do a test strip first with all of the colors you are planning to use to make sure they are combining like you want.
When applying wax, regulate the temperature so that it penetrates the fabric, not so cool that it just turns yellowish and sits on top, and not so hot that all your lines spread out too much. The wax should have a clear appearance, indicating it has penetrated to the other side. When dry, dip into a warm dye bath.
Dye the fabric, first using the lightest color that will be on the piece and will mix well with successive colors, ie. like a yellow, then the next dye bath could be turquoise, which would actually mix with the yellow to dye the fabric green in all the areas where the yellow was not waxed over. If washing soda has been added to the dyebath, don't leave your waxed fabric in for more than 30 minutes as it eats away the wax eventually, exposing areas to unwanted dye.
Rinse with cool water. Gently hand wash the fabric in cool water and textile detergent. Hang to dry. Some separating of color can occur while hanging so be careful. For dark colors a slower drying helps to keep the color brilliant. Put the fabric in plastic for a very slow dry.
Apply the next stage of wax with a natural bristle brush or batik pen to the areas you want to remain the newly dyed color or rewax any areas that look eroded, and repeat the process. Always be aware of the translucent nature of dye. Each color is affected by the previous colors. Dye your darkest areas last. The final mix of colors at the end will be a brown, grey or black, combining all of the colors used on the peice.
Boil the wax out. Choose a pot that will comfortably hold your fabric and fill with water and a dash of textile detergent to get the wax and any remaining excess dye away from the fabric. Bring to a boil and add fabric. Use something to stir the fabric around in the boiling water and keep it submerged. After a few minutes, the wax will boil out of the fabric and float to the top. When the wax seems completely removed from the fabric, remove from heat and allow the water to cool. Be sure that the fabric sits on the bottom of the pan to avoid the floating wax residue. Allow to cool and peel the hardened wax off the surface and remove the fabric. May be boiled a second time.
Cold Resist
Lay fabric on plastic.
Mix Resistad 1:1 with water for white lines or dye for colored lines. Transfer to a gutta pen and draw lines onto the fabric. Heat set with a steam iron.
Add sodium alginate to dye to thicken (optional).
Use a white Taklon brush to paint fabric with dye as desired, spray with a mister or dip in a cold dye bath.
Hot Iron Resist
Use a sharp crayon, china marker or wax based colored pencil to draw or trace an image on the fabric. The colored pencil may be applied before or after painting to achieve a multi color blended effect. Place unprinted newspaper on the fabric. Melt the wax with an iron. It will absorb into the paper. Remove the paper while hot. When finished, boil out the remaining wax.
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