L-Lysine on Sericite provides both oil and water resistance. Lauroyl Lysine is derived from coconut and palm oils. It is an expensive raw material, and so is commonly added to a formula as a surface-treatment on a less expensive base powder.
It provides an increased "cushion" or bounce and improves compressibility. Sericite Mica which is surface-treated with Lauroyl Lysine is softer, silkier, smoother and both oil- and water-resistant.
Calcium Carbonate absorbs moisture and opacifies. It is often used as a base powder.
Kaolin is a natural clay that absorbs oil and provides adhesion.
Rapsody or French Talc is is a light weight, translucent filler that does not alter color. It may be used in all formulas. French talc doesn't clog pores.
Cornstarch is a light weight, translucent filler that does not alter color. It absorbs oil. Powder formulas only.
High Micron Zinc Oxide is a whitening powder with a large particle size (passing through 325 mesh) that is a good option for cosmetics which require more coverage and density for fair and light toned skin. Using too much may cause ashiness.
Z-Cote Zinc Oxide is a non-whitening form of zinc that provides sun protection for darker skin tones. Water formulations only.
HP1 Z-Cote Zinc Oxide is a non-whitening form of zinc that provides sun protection for darker skin tones. Powder and oil formulations only.
Titanium Dioxide is a standard white pigment used for lightening other pigments and to protect the skin from UV damage. It is a natural opaque white mineral.
Water Dispersible Titanium Dioxide is used in water formulations and powder for oily skin.
Oil Dispersible Titanium Dioxide is used in oil formulations and powder formulations for dry skin.
Micronized Titanium Dioxide is a nano particle that is more translucent while providing the same UV protection. It is used to lighten pigments in formulations for darker skin tones. Powder and oil formulations only.
Methicone Treated Titanium Dioxide is an opaque powder surface treated with methicone. The result is a powder which stays loose and free flowing and has a high water repellancy. Waterproof powder formulations only, but difficult to blend.
Face/Body Powder 5-30%
Foundations 3-7%
Lipsticks 2-5%
Eyeshadow and Blushes 5-40%
Skin Care 3-10%
Allantoin is a crystal created by the oxidation of uric acid, an exfoliator and skin softener. Allantoin's purpose is to protect and stimulate the growth of new skin. It is an additive used for mature skin.
Allantoin is not used by itself. In your formula, you should use between 0.5% - 2.0% by weight. That's 0.5-2 grams per 100 grams.
Nylon 12 is a translucent synthetic additive that expands and contracts along fine lines without filling them in. It also makes pressing mattes easier.
Silica scatters light and blurs the look of lines and wrinkles.
Bismuth Oxychloride is a translucent white pearlescent powder that reflects light and imparts a dewey appearance. Often used in mineral veils and finishing powders. By itself, it is a highlighter that imparts a natural glow.
If the color is too light add more pigment.
Orange Oxide (Apricot) neutralizes blue - for blue under eye shadows or blue bruising. Add titanium dioxide for light skin tones. Adds color to sallow neutral skin tones.
Ultramarine Violet (Lavender) neutralizes yellow - for yellow bruising or jaundice. Adds color to sallow deep skin tones.
Once you have a well-mixed color, pour it into the grinder cup. Add pressing medium one drop at a time, grinding after each addition until it looks crumbly. Pour into a silicone bowl and transfer slowly to a pan. Tamp down with a pressing tile. Use a small C-clamp to get it firm. Powders can also be wetted with rubbing alcohol and poured into pans. Allow to dry until damp before pressing.
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