Saturday, November 26, 2016

Mineral Makeup

I'm adding this section in case anyone wants to use my portrait recipes for makeup.
 
Silk Mica is an uncolored mica that imparts a shimmery appearance.

Sericite Mica is a bulking and base powder.

Methicone Treated Sericite is a translucent powder surface treated with methicone. The result is a powder which stays loose and free flowing and has a high water repellancy. It also acts as a wrinkle filler. Powder formulations only.

L-Lysine on Sericite provides both oil and water resistance. Lauroyl Lysine is derived from coconut and palm oils. It is an expensive raw material, and so is commonly added to a formula as a surface-treatment on a less expensive base powder.

It provides an increased "cushion" or bounce and improves compressibility. Sericite Mica which is surface-treated with Lauroyl Lysine is softer, silkier, smoother and both oil- and water-resistant.

Calcium Carbonate absorbs moisture and opacifies. It is often used as a base powder.

Kaolin is a natural clay that absorbs oil and provides adhesion.

Rapsody or French Talc is is a light weight, translucent filler that does not alter color. It may be used in all formulas. French talc doesn't clog pores.

Cornstarch is a light weight, translucent filler that does not alter color. It absorbs oil. Powder formulas only.

Rice Powder is a light weight, translucent filler that does not alter color. Good for mineral veils or sensitive skin. All formulas.

Zinc Oxide's purpose is to soothe and protect the skin from UV damage. It is commonly found in ointments, creams, and lotion. Zinc oxide is a natural semi-opaque white mineral.

High Micron Zinc Oxide is a whitening powder with a large particle size (passing through 325 mesh) that is a good option for cosmetics which require more coverage and density for fair and light toned skin. Using too much may cause ashiness.

Z-Cote Zinc Oxide is a non-whitening form of zinc that provides sun protection for darker skin tones. Water formulations only.

HP1 Z-Cote Zinc Oxide is a non-whitening form of zinc that provides sun protection for darker skin tones. Powder and oil formulations only.

Titanium Dioxide is a standard white pigment used for lightening other pigments and to protect the skin from UV damage. It is a natural opaque white mineral.

Water Dispersible Titanium Dioxide is used in water formulations and powder for oily skin.

Oil Dispersible Titanium Dioxide is used in oil formulations and powder formulations for dry skin.

Micronized Titanium Dioxide is a nano particle that is more translucent while providing the same UV protection. It is used to lighten pigments in formulations for darker skin tones. Powder and oil formulations only.

Methicone Treated Titanium Dioxide is an opaque powder surface treated with methicone. The result is a powder which stays loose and free flowing and has a high water repellancy. Waterproof powder formulations only, but difficult to blend.

Boron nitride provides slip (smooth application) and adhesion (how long the product stays on the skin).

Pencils 1-5%
Face/Body Powder 5-30%
Foundations 3-7%
Lipsticks 2-5%
Eyeshadow and Blushes 5-40%
Skin Care 3-10%

Magnesium Myristrate is a translucent powder that provides slip. It is lighter than cornstarch. Powder formulas only.

Zinc Stearate is a pressing base powder that provides excellent adhesion.

Micronized Pearl Powder contains 31% Calcium and 56% Protein as well as an assortment of amino acids. This is believed by some to promote healthy, lustrous skin. Powder formulas only.

Hydrolyzed Pearl Powder is the same as above for water formulas.

Micronized Silk Powder reflects light, absorbs UV rays, breathes and naturally adjusts moisture, absorbs oil, and contains 18 amino acids which are easily absorbed into the skin.

Hydrolyzed Silk Powder is the same as above for water formulas.

Allantoin is a crystal created by the oxidation of uric acid, an exfoliator and skin softener. Allantoin's purpose is to protect and stimulate the growth of new skin. It is an additive used for mature skin.

Allantoin is not used by itself. In your formula, you should use between 0.5% - 2.0% by weight. That's 0.5-2 grams per 100 grams.

Nylon 12 is a translucent synthetic additive that expands and contracts along fine lines without filling them in. It also makes pressing mattes easier.

Silica scatters light and blurs the look of lines and wrinkles.

Bismuth Oxychloride is a translucent white pearlescent powder that reflects light and imparts a dewey appearance. Often used in mineral veils and finishing powders. By itself, it is a highlighter that imparts a natural glow.

Mini Scoops measure weight in .05 (5 mg), 0.1 (10 mg), and 0.5 gram. I refer to them as S, M, and L scoops, respectively in recipes. TKB Trading $3.00.
Mini Measuring Spoons measure volume or weight in Drop (1/16 ml or 62.5 mg, 0.625g), Smidgen (1/8 ml or 125 mg, 0.125g), Pinch (1/4 ml or 250 mg, 0.25g), Dash (1/2 ml or 500 mg, 0.5g), and Tad (1 ml or 1g). TKB Trading $5.89.

Electric Mill Herb Grinder on eBay for $5.99. You will need this to grind pigments to a fine powder and mix in additives. Don't try to mix these recipes without it. Stirring isn't enough. Titanium dioxide is sticky. It will adhere to the cup and blades of the grinder. Tap inside the grinder with a palette knife to get the powder out of the threads. Scrape the powder off the sides and bottom of the cup also and tap the powder to one side. Carefully, pour it into a bowl or clamshell. Clean the grinder with a few grains of rice. Blow out any remaining powder with canned air.

Water Resistant Finishing Veil with Sunscreen

2 Tads, 2g (20g) Rice Powder
2 Tads, 2g (20g) Silk Powder
2 Tads, 2g (20g) HP1 Z-Cote Zinc Oxide
1 Tad, 1g (10g) Micronized Titanium Dioxide
1 Tad, 1g (10g) Magnesium Myristrate
1 Tad, 1g (10g) L-Lysine
1 Tad, 1g (10g) Silica
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Bismuth (optional)

Yields 10 grams or 100 grams bulk  

Matte Powder Base, Hightlighter

4 Tads, 4g (40g) French Talc
2 Tads, 2g (20g) Zinc Oxide 
2 Tads, 2g (20g) Titanium Dioxide 
1 Tad, 1g (10g) Kaolin
1 Tad, 1g (10g) Magnesium Myristrate
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Zinc Stearate

Yields 10.05 grams or 100.5 grams bulk 

Matte Powder Base, Blush

5 Tads, 5g (50g) Talc
2 Tads, 2g (20g) Zinc Oxide 
2 Tads, 2g (20g) Magnesium Myristrate
1 Tad, (10g) Titanium Dioxide
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Zinc Stearate

Yields 10.05 grams or 100.5 grams bulk 

Matte Powder Base, Bronzer

6 Tads, 6g (60g) Talc
2 Tads + 1 Dash, 2.5g (25g) Zinc Oxide 
2 Tads + 1 Dash, 2.5g (25g) Magnesium Myristrate
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Zinc Stearate

Yields 10.05 grams or 100.5 grams bulk 

Matte Powder Base, Contour

5 Tads, 5g (50g) Talc
2 Tads, 2g (20g) Zinc Oxide 
2 Tads, 2g (20g) Magnesium Myristrate
1 Tad, 1g (10g) Kaolin
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Zinc Stearate

Yields 10.05 grams or 100.5 grams bulk

Shimmery Powder Base, Highlight or Blush

5Tads, 5g (50g) Sericite
2 Tads, 2g (20g) Zinc Oxide 
1 Tad, (10g) Titanium Dioxide
1 Tad, 1g (10g) Silk Mica
1 Tad, 0.9g (9g) Magnesium Myristrate
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Zinc Stearate
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Bismuth Oxychloride

Yields 10 grams or 100 grams bulk

Shimmery Powder Base, Bronzer

5 Tads, 5g (50g) Sericite
2 Tads + 1 Dash, 2.5g (25g) Zinc Oxide 
2 Tads + 1 Dash, 2.5g (25g) Magnesium Myristrate
1 Dash, 0.9g (9g) Silk Mica
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Zinc Stearate
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Bismuth Oxychloride

Yields 10.05 grams or 100.5 grams bulk 

Concealer Powder Base

4 Tads, 4g (40g) Calcium Carbonate
4 Tads, 4g (40g) Kaolin
1 Tad, 1g (10g) Zinc Oxide 
1 Tad, 1g (10g) Titanium Dioxide 
1 medium scoop, 0.1g (1g) Zinc Stearate

Yields 10.1 grams or 101 grams bulk

Light Foundation Powder Base, Young Normal Skin

5 Tads + 1 Dash, 5.5g (55g) Talc
2 Tads, 2g (20g) Magnesium Myristrate
1 Tad, 1g (10g) Zinc Oxide
1 Tad, 1g (10g) Titanium Dioxide
1 Dash, 0.5g (5g) Kaolin
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Zinc Stearate

Yields 10.05 grams or 100.5 grams bulk

Healing Foundation Powder Base, Sensitive or Acne Prone

3 Tads, 3g (30g) Rice Powder
3 Tads, 3g (30g) Pearl Powder
2 Tads, 2g (20g) Silk Powder
1 Tad, 1g (10g) Zinc Oxide
1 Tad, 1g (10g) Titanium Dioxide
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Allantoin
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Zinc Stearate

Yields 10.1 grams or 101 grams bulk 

Medium Coverage Foundation Powder Base, Light Skintones

3 Tads, 3g (30g) Talc
2 Tads, 2g (20g) Zinc Oxide
2 Tads, 2g (20g) Titanium Dioxide
2 Tads, 2g (20g) Kaolin
1 Tad, 1g (10g) Magnesium Myristrate
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Zinc Stearate

Yields 10.05 grams or 100.5 grams bulk

Medium Coverage Foundation Powder Base, Oily or Dark Skintones

3 Tads, 3g (30g) Kaolin
2 Tads, 2g (20g) Magnesium Myristrate
2 Tads, 2g (20g) HP1 Z Cote Zinc Oxide
1 Tad, 1g (10g) Titanium Dioxide, Water Dispersible
1 Tad, 1g (10g) Silica
1 Tad, 1g (10g) Cornstarch
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Zinc Stearate

Yields 10.05 grams or 100.5 grams bulk

Heavy Matte Foundation Powder Base, Dry or Mature Skin

7 Tads, 7g (70g) Kaolin
6 Tads, 6g (60g) Zinc Oxide
6 Tads, 6g (60g) Titanium Dioxide, Oil Dispersible
4 Tads, 4g (40g) Talc
4 Tads, 4g (40g) Silica
1 Tad, 1g (10g) Zinc Stearate
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) L-Lysine on Sericite
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Boron nitride
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Nylon 12
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Silk Powder
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Pearl Powder
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Allantoin

Yields 28.30 grams or 283 grams bulk

Foundation Blend

Skin tone blend from Portrait Recipes
3 Tads Foundation Base

If the color is too dark, add more titanium dioxide.
If the color is too light add more pigment.
If you need more coverage add more kaolin or zinc oxide, but be careful-they can make your make up ashy.

Concealer is 1/2 shade lighter than your skin tone. It can also be used all over to brighten a dull complexion.

1 medium scoop Foundation blend
3 Tads Concealer Base

Color Correctors

2 small scoops Pigment*
3 Tads Light, Heavy, or Concealer Base*

*For medium or dark skin tones, double the amount of pigment.

*For all over heavy coverage, start with 2 Tads of Concealer Base from above. Add 1 Tad of kaolin.

Chromium Oxide Green neutralizes red - for acne, broken capillaries or inflammation.

Hydrated Chromium Oxide Green neutralizes pink - for cool undertones, rosacea or port wine stains.

Red Oxide (Warm Pink) neutralizes green - for green bruising on ruddy skin tones. Adds color to sallow ruddy skin tones.

Ultramarine Pink (Cool Pink) neutralizes green - for green bruising on cool fair skin. Adds cool color to sallow fair skin tones.

Orange Oxide (Apricot) neutralizes blue - for blue under eye shadows or blue bruising. Add titanium dioxide for light skin tones. Adds color to sallow neutral skin tones.

Psi Ultramarine Blue neutralizes orange - for freckles, sun spots, or sunless tanner. Adds color to sallow dark skin tones.

Yellow Oxide neutralizes purple - for purple eye pigmentation common in cool fair skin or bruising that is more purple than blue. Adds color to sallow golden skin tones.

Ultramarine Violet (Lavender) neutralizes yellow - for yellow bruising or jaundice. Adds color to sallow deep skin tones.

Highlighter is 1/2 to 2 shades lighter than your skin tone. 

1 small scoop Foundation blend
3 Tads Matte Highlight or Shimmery Blush Base

Contour is a 1/2 to 2 shades darker than your skin tone

Foundation blend
2 small scoops of dark brown oxide to deepen
1 Dash Matte Contour Base

Pale to Fair, add 1 Tad Titanium O.D.

Light to Medium, add 1 Pinch Titanium O.D.

Medium to Dark, add 1 Drop Titanium O.D.

Dark to Deep, use as-is

Ebony, replace dark brown oxide with red oxide blue and add 1 Drop Titanium O.D.

Blush adds a flush of color to the cheeks. For fair and light skin tones, it needs to be the same color as your undertone, but with a little more intensity. If you have large freckles that blend, you can wear both pink and peach blush. Medium to tan and deeper skin tones require a bright blush color that matches or contrasts the base skin tone. A matte formula blends while a subtle shimmer highlights.

5 small scoops Blush blend
3 Tads Matte or Shimmery Blush Base

Bronzer should only be used to even out a tan. Think of it as a sheer summer foundation. Everyone tans according to their undertone so the same bronzer color doesn't work for everyone. A porcelain tone tans peach. A pink undertone burns or tans russet. A warm undertone tans golden. A neutral undertone tans copper. A brown toned individual only becomes a deeper brown. A tan may also be a 1/2 to 3 shades darker than your skin tone. Too much shimmer also doesn't work well on mature skin.

1 medium scoop foundation blend
1 small scoop of Colored Mica, see below (optional)
1 Dash Matte or Shimmery Bronzer Base

Garnet Mica (light cool)
Tibetan Ochre Mica (medium cool)
Jack Mica (dark cool)
Cinnamon Sugar Mica (light warm)
Glimmer Beige Mica (medium warm)
Forget Gold Mica (dark warm)
Apricot Mica (light neutral)
Bronze Fine Mica (medium neutral)
Blush Beige Mica (dark neutral)
Soft Brown Mica (light brown)
Wheat Mica (medium brown)
Swiss Chocolate Mica (dark brown)

Matte Eyeshadow Blend

6 Tads + 1 Dash, 6.75g (67.5g) Kaolin
3 Tads, 3g (30g) Pigment
1 medium scoop, 0.25g (2.5g) Zinc Stearate

Yields 10 grams or 100 grams bulk

Pearl Eyeshadow Blend

6 Tads + 1 Dash, 6.75g (67.5g) Kaolin
3 Tads, 3g (30g) Pigment
1 medium scoop, 0.25g (2.5g) Zinc Stearate
3 small scoops, 0.15g (1.5g) Bismuth Oxychloride

Yields 10.15 grams or 101.5 grams bulk 

Shimmer Eyeshadow Blend

6 Tads + 1 Dash, 6.75g (67.5g) Kaolin
3 Tads, 3g (30g) Mica*
1 medium scoop, 0.25g (2.5g) Zinc Stearate

*Do not grind mica. It must be stirred in last.

Yields 10 grams or 100 grams.

Pressing Powder

Once you have a well-mixed color, pour it into the grinder cup. Add pressing medium one drop at a time, grinding after each addition until it looks crumbly. Pour into a silicone bowl and transfer slowly to a pan. Tamp down with a pressing tile. Use a small C-clamp to get it firm. Powders can also be wetted with rubbing alcohol and poured into pans. Allow to dry until damp before pressing.

Translucent Powder Blend for Lipstick

2 Tads + 1 Dash, 2.5g (25g) Talc
2 Tads + 1 Dash, 2.5g (25g) Magnesium Stearate
2 Tads + 1 Dash, 2.5g (25g) Zinc Oxide (optional)
1 Tad + 1 Pinch, 1.25g (12.5g) Calcium Carbonate
1 Tad, 1g (10g) Titanium Dioxide (optional)
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Zinc Stearate
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Boron Nitride
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Silica
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Nylon 12
1 small scoop, 0.05g (0.5g) Allantoin

Yields 10 grams or 100 grams bulk 

Grind powders together. Use 1 Pinch per lipstick or 3 grams for lipstick base. Do not include titanium or zinc oxide for deep colors.

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